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World Disco Soup Day Interview with Gleaners!

4/24/2019

 
Picture
Photo courtesy of Bob Durling
SFB: What drew you to the food rescue world? 
Jack: I used to be a physical education teacher in Arlington, VA, and taught for 3 years in elementary school where I realized kids had no idea where their food came from.  I was working at a title 1 school where 80% of our kids were on free or reduced lunch - their concept of food was it was that it came from the grocery store. I started becoming interested in connecting kids and their families back to the land - back to food and growing food - and decided to go back to school.  I got a masters degree in environmental education up in New Hampshire, and since then I’ve worked with Waltham Fields Community Farm, Mill City Grows and a few other non-profits in the area.  I’ve grown this real interest and passion towards food rescue and how we all play a role within our food system, more specifically helping educate individuals, community members, and the general public on what is food waste and how do we prevent it.  It’s been a journey!

SFB: Given your background working with kids, is this also a focus of the Gleaners’ work?
Jack: We have started to incorporate family gleans where we invite families to come out and help us.  We’ve implemented 2 last year, and we had 2 and 3 year olds out there picking green beans and harvesting apples!  It was fabulous. The parents and kids enjoy it, and it allows families to get out and experience farm life. I’ve also done a few elementary lessons at schools where I go in and teach kindergarteners about gleaning and what that means.   

SFB: Can you provide an example of the pathway of the Gleaners’ rescued food? 
Jack: We partner with farmers up and down eastern Massachusetts and all the way out towards Leominster.  For example, we are partnering with the Autumn Hills Orchard out in Groton; their orchard manager will call us saying that they’ve already reached their quota on apples, and there are a bunch that they can’t get to.  We then get a group of volunteers to meet us on the farm, and we’ll harvest for up to 3 hours per trip; hosting 2-3 trips per day and walking away with anywhere between 8 and 15+ thousand pounds of apples in one day.  The apples are all harvested into large bins, which are then loaded onto our trucks, and either put into cold storage or brought back to our facility to be repacked into banana boxes.  Once packed and palletized, they’re back onto the truck and delivered to the Greater Boston Food Bank, Rhode Island Food Bank, New Hampshire Food Bank, or are individually delivered or picked up by a local food pantry.  We also partner with Food For Free and Daily Table.  Last year we worked with 45 farms - in the past up to 80 - and currently work with about 25 individual hunger relief agencies.  With our food bank network we’re reaching 750+ agencies overall. ​
SFB: What are the biggest challenges you see for the fight against food waste? 
Jack: It comes down to the consumers.  The ideal of nature being perfected, where we demand a perfected piece of fruit to buy in a grocery store or find at a farmer’s market, is unrealistic.  There are tons of food being left just because of looks or if there’s minor damage to it, but 90% of the crop is still good. I think it’s about changing the mindset of what we know as food, and our relationship with our food that we’re consuming each and every day.  

SFB: Primarily what market do you service?
Jack: We work with farms with just a few acres and also large-scale farms - anywhere from 3-4 acres to 70 acres.  Most are family-owned, generational farms that have been around for quite a while. Big crops for us are apples and butternut squash, but any crop that you can imagine growing here in Massachusetts we are harvesting.  We have several partnerships with orchards, but most of the farms we work with are very diverse with their crops. We can be on a farm every week and we’re constantly getting something different. 

SFB: What is your relationship with other local food rescue organizations?
Jack: We work closely with Daily Table and Food For Free.  We also partner with Lovin’ Spoonfuls.  It was great because two of their current employees used to work for us so we made that connection!  They routinely pick up food, and have started as a small partner but we’re hoping to build with scale.  

SFB: What is the most interesting creation you've seen (or made yourself!) from rescued food? 
Jack: We work with Commonwealth Kitchen and they have produced apple sauce and tomato sauce, which is delicious and also a really good outlet for us.  We also did an event with Mei Mei - the ability for Chef Irene to take rescued produce and turn it into something delicious really changes the mindset of how food should be cooked.  We provided her with just 6-7 ingredients and she was able to transform that into an 8 course meal. She’s such an incredible, innovative entrepreneur and person in our city who is really trying to change the dynamics of what restaurants are built around, and creating a workforce that is appreciated and respected.  ​
SFB: Do you recall any particularly memorable beneficiary interactions you'd like to share?
Jack: As an individual that has been out in the fields harvesting and helping distribute food, I’ve been lucky to witness some really rewarding interactions.  When you’re delivering food on a Saturday morning at 7:30 in the morning and you see individuals already lining up with their carts even though the pantry doesn’t open until 11, you know they’re there because they want the first choice for the fresh produce that’s coming in.  The people that we’re providing food to don’t have the accessibility or affordability to go out to the store and buy that nutrient-rich, locally sourced produce that’s a natural right for all of us, but unfortunately is not the case in all communities. It’s wonderful to see the joy and smiles on their faces when they see us show up with boxes of food, and they want to help us.  They’re always peeking into the boxes excitedly, saying “Ooooh! There are peaches this week! Tomatoes!” It’s a good feeling when you know that you’re helping to change these individuals lives on a daily basis.

SFB: How would you like to see the Boston community more engaged in the food waste fight?
Jack: What Daily Table has implemented within the Dudley Square area is creating the ability and the resource to have a place where people can easily grab food to go: it’s a fresh, healthy choice, instead of going to your local bodega or fast food joint.  I think we need more of this. One of our board members has opened up Neighborhood Produce in Somerville, a bodega serving fresh produce that’s based around what the community wants.  It’s bringing individuals to the table - farmers, community members, and organizations - and figuring out not what people on the higher-level think should be done, but what actually needs to be done on the street level.  It’s what people really need and want, and creates more of a resource to actually get that implemented. Farmer’s markets are great, but you still have to travel to those. I think we should invest in putting farmer’s markets and other resources within communities that don’t have them but could really benefit from them.

SFB: What are some upcoming plans for the Gleaners in 2019 that you’re excited about?
Jack: We’re taking part in the Walk for Hunger on May 5th, and we’re welcoming individuals to join our team.   We’re also doing the Ride for Food in October this year.  Currently we’re prepping for the season and getting our ducks in a row so when the farmers start calling in June we’re ready to go!

Interested in volunteering with the Gleaners?  Fill out their volunteer form!

World Disco Soup Day Interview with Rescuing Leftover Cuisine!

4/14/2019

 
PictureDana Siles (left), New England Coordinator and Lauren Basler (right), Massachusetts Branch Head, the team behind Rescuing Leftover Cuisine Massachusetts.

Photo courtesy of Rescuing Leftover Cuisine
SFB: What drew you to the food rescue world?
Dana: I have been a wedding & event photographer for 21 years and have seen too much food that was absolutely consumable go to waste. For a long time, I thought it was "the nature of the biz” - one of those "necessary evils" that we face in our professions. But then I learned that food donation was legal and also encouraged by the IRS. I co-founded an initiative within the local events industry to educate venues and caterers about the laws and logistics of food donation and tried to connect them with local human service organizations who provide food to those in need. But an ongoing challenge was that these organizations could not actually drive to recover the food!  I wound up meeting Robert Lee, co-founder of RLC and eventually joined the RLC team in 2017 in order to grow their (at the time) small Massachusetts branch, alongside
Massachusetts Branch Head Lauren Basler. Our branch is now the 2nd largest in the country, and Lauren and I are thrilled!

SFB: What are the biggest challenges you see for the fight against food waste?
Dana: There are a few challenges which are "standards" in the world of reducing wasted food:

1. Many food recipients don't know that they can accept excess prepared food and are not familiar with the Emerson Act. They are afraid to accept and serve this food, yet their guests would absolutely utilize this food if given the opportunity. One of my goals is to host community meetings with those who run these organizations to educate them on food safety.  
2. On the same note, most businesses are afraid to donate excess food because they fear liability issues, at times even after being educated on ServSafe guidelines and the Emerson Act.

3. Businesses do not want to "change their ways." Making change takes time. Time is money. They are a business, not a non-profit - so shifting this mindset is an ongoing education and challenge (which I welcome)!

4. Many businesses believe they do not need to donate excess food if they compost. It's easier to compost. I try to educate them that, in the case that the food is consumable, 
"the banana should be donated - it's only the peel that belongs in the compost."

5. "The Juggle:" sometimes, we have too many donor partners and not enough volunteers. Other times, we have volunteers upset because all of the rescues are taken and they can't participate. So it's a constant balancing act and a challenge that we welcome and charge through over time!

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Photo courtesy of Rescuing Leftover Cuisine
SFB: Primarily what market do you service?
Dana: Any business that has excess prepared food that is consumable, even if not sellable. Since we are strictly volunteer based, we target smaller-scale excess food (up to 200-300 pounds in general) and the majority of our rescues are under 100 pounds. We have no minimum requirement for pickup: we will pick up as little as 5 pounds of food. We don't see it as 5 pounds. We see it as 5 pounds and many opportunities!

SFB: What is your relationship with other local food rescue organizations?
Dana: We prefer to "complement and not compete" with other local organizations such as Lovin' Spoonfuls, Food For Free, Daily Table, Boston Area Gleaners, etc. The work they do is equally important yet quite different from what we do. They are recovering mostly fresh food or large scale prepared food. Some of them have trucks and staff to handle large quantities.  I actually hosted a roundtable discussion at the Environmental Protection Agency last year to get us all on the same page. I wanted to make it clear to them that we are here to "fill in the gaps" and not compete. We refer them, they refer us, and we complement each other to reduce wasted food and educate donors and recipients.

SFB: What is the most interesting creation you've seen (or made yourself!) from rescued food? 
Dana:  Daily Table amazes me.  What their chefs are able to prepare from excess food that would have otherwise gone to waste is amazing...they are an inspiration!
PicturePhoto courtesy of Rescuing Leftover Cuisine
SFB: Do you recall any particularly memorable beneficiary interactions you'd like to share?
Dana:  I recently brought food from one of our donor partners to their designated recipient: Sister Rose's in New Bedford, MA, a church shelter for those without a permanent home.  As always, I pulled my car up to the back door and the staff and guests greeted me to take the food out of my car: a combination of salads, sandwiches, breakfast foods, fruit and veggie bowls - really good, quality food from a cafeteria of a local business. Everyone was so excited about the food - I hear "ooooh" and "aaah" from everyone. And then I hear one of the guests say (paraphrasing): "I can attest that this is healthy, quality food. I made it this morning!" I had to do a double-take: it was one of the chefs from the cafeteria I just rescued the food from. The last time I saw him was at the establishment in his "official" uniform. Now it was night time, he was in a baseball cap, and in a different element.  I was surprised to see him and asked, “Are you working here?!" His answer was that he was staying there temporarily and that he was so grateful for Sister Rose's and also for this food - that he just happened to make that morning!

This experience jumps out at me because when I am educating people about RLC, I always highlight that food insecurity is more common than generally acknowledged: the food insecure person could be your next door neighbor or the person in front of you in line at the bank. This man has a good job at a great business, and he was the recipient of his own created food at a time he needed it most. 

One quote that I love: Our guests range from full-time working women who cannot make ends meet for their families to women living in shelters, cars, or on the streets. On an average morning, we serve women on their way to work in scrubs, and guests who literally only have the clothes on their back… Our guests are resilient, inventive and determined to help their families thrive. Without food donors, these women and their families would have one less resource and may have to resort to skipping meals…   - Sharon Briggs, Rosie’s Place

SFB: How would you like to see the Boston community more engaged in the food waste fight? 
Dana:  Don't get me started. Haha! Education needs to happen in three different ways: to the potential food donor partners, to the potential volunteers, and to the potential food recipients. In addition, it takes government and local influencers to help make this change. This is all stuff we are actively working on and I look forward to a positive outcome over time.

SFB: What are some upcoming plans for RLC in 2019 that you’re excited about?
Dana:  Thanks to the collaboration of our food donor partners, volunteers, and recipients, 102,796 pounds of recovered excess food provided about 82,236 meals for those in need throughout MA and prevented about 38,548 pounds of CO2 emissions from entering the atmosphere in 2018. This more than doubled our success in 2017 and we are excited to see what 2019 brings! 


Very recently, we were approved for funding in order to offer three PAID “Lead Rescuer” positions in order to continue to grow our mission in Massachusetts! Why are we piloting this new program? We have 27 Open Rescues per week that we must fill consistently in order to continue growing RLC in our state. To learn more, please email me at dana@rescuingleftovercuisine.org.

In addition, we are seeking passionate interns who are committed to social, environmental and local action. This is an opportunity to develop valuable new skills while making a real impact in the community. Documentation will be provided upon request for internship credit, resume and college application use. Internship opportunities include: Marketing Intern, Operations Management Intern (paid internship) and Outreach Intern. To learn more, please visit: https://tinyurl.com/RLCMA-Internships

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Photo courtesy of Rescuing Leftover Cuisine
We are eager to grow RLC throughout all of Massachusetts. To start, we need volunteers!  Sign up here. Note: Under Preferred Region, click Massachusetts; Under Availability, it's best to check All. It would be wonderful if you also check the box for Emergency Rescues!

World Disco Soup Day Interview with Lovin' Spoonfuls!

4/10/2019

 
PictureLauren Palumbo, COO, Lovin' Spoonfuls
SFB: What drew you to the food rescue world?
Lauren: I previously worked in hospitality and the non-profit sector, and food rescue was a combination of these two passions - food, and working in an organization that prioritizes people over profits.  It was the perfect melding of those two worlds!

SFB: Can you provide an example of the pathway of Lovin’ Spoonfuls rescued food?
Lauren:  We rescue from about 70 businesses and deliver to 140 organizations.  Our Food Rescue Coordinators do their best on the road each day to match what they’re receiving from retailers with the needs of each agency.  For example, cut up fruit from Whole Foods is great for afterschool programs so they have easy snacks, while frozen proteins from Wegmans can be really helpful for a soup kitchen to incorporate into their meals, and day-old breads are fantastic for Saint Francis House’s breakfast service.

SFB: What are the biggest challenges you see for the fight against food waste?  
Lauren:  A big challenge is ensuring that all businesses are prioritizing what we tend to call “higher level diversion.”  Massachusetts has an organic waste ban that requires businesses that have more than a ton of food waste each week to divert it from landfills.  They could comply with that via composting or anaerobic digestion, but for us we look at it this way: as long as there are still 10% of residents in MA that are food insecure, we need to ensure that we are prioritizing higher level solutions or preventing that food from ending up in the landfill.  Source reduction is number one on the list of solutions to fight food waste, but number two is feeding people.  We want to make sure that we’re continuing to educate the businesses that we work with to maximize the amount of food being donated, but we also want to make sure that we are educating the community and businesses in the state as a whole to let them know that they have options.  Just because composting might be easier because their retailer offers it, it’s not necessarily the best solution.

SFB: Primarily what market do you service?
Lauren: We tend to work within your typical large grocery stores - Whole Foods, Wegmans, Big Y, Roche Bros., Hannaford, Trader Joe’s.  We also work with distribution and wholesale partners, in food service, and in farming during growing season. Retail is definitely the sweet spot of our work because there is a consistent source of food on a daily basis there.  We typically don’t work further downstream than that: corner markets, small restaurants, or bakeries aren’t the best fit for our operation just because we are running 12 ft box trucks.  It doesn’t make sense operationally, or in terms of efficiency and cost, to send a team member to rescue 10 lbs of day-old bagels for example, which unfortunately there are a lot of!  That being said, we do have a couple of ‘legacy partners’ that we have been working with since the beginning and we have maintained those partnerships. We do have a minimum collection for businesses, but we have been working with them for so long that if they’re along the route we fit them in.

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Photo courtesy of Lovin' Spoonfuls
SFB: What is your relationship with other local food rescue organizations?  
Lauren: We don’t have specific partnerships, but we’re all very much in regular communication with each other.  We all certainly run in the same circles so we see each other quite a bit and we’re all friendly! I think we all try to make sure that we understand the goals and the missions of each organization, and recognize that there is no one solution to this problem: reducing excess food waste is a multifaceted challenge that requires a variety of solutions.  The Boston Area Gleaners are a perfect example because none of the rest of us do gleaning.  We work with farms, but we work with farms on post-harvest product: we rescue product that they pick and that gets stuck on a shelf in a farmstand, or that they put into a CSA share that never got picked up.  The food that we rescue is all 100% expected to be retailed and sold, but then just isn’t for some reason. We do not have the staff levels or bandwidth to go on the farms and pick the product that was never harvested in the first place, so they are an essential resource doing something that none of the rest of us are doing.  While Food For Free does work similar to us, they’ve moved into a variety of hunger-relief solutions that we don’t do.  For example, they run a weekend backpack program where they are creating meals for people, and we are specifically a distribution organization.  Rescuing Leftover Cuisine is focused on prepared foods and working a lot in the quick service restaurant spaces.  We have just traditionally found that that model is not necessarily a fit for us because they want pickups late at night, and they’re usually small quantities.  It comes down to the fact that food waste is happening in so many different ways throughout the food distribution spectrum, retail, and service that it requires as many solutions.  We’re fortunate in this region to have a wide variety of solutions, because I also recognize that there are whole swaths of the country where there are no solutions.

SFB: Do you recall any particularly memorable beneficiary interactions you'd like to share?
Lauren: We have so many - I think we’ve been so fortunate to be able to build so many strong relationships with all the organizations that we’re serving.  A few of my favorite quotes include: 


"We know that community is built around food - with the students we serve, their families, and the neighborhood - and Lovin' Spoonfuls is at the heart of that." - Paraclete, South Boston

"I look forward to every Monday & Wednesday because I know we're going to receive good quality food from Reggie!" - Needham Community Council Food Pantry
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Photo courtesy of Lovin' Spoonfuls
"Lovin' Spoonfuls deliveries have allowed Natick Service Council to convert from a traditional pantry model of pre-made boxes for each patron, to a Client-Choice model food pantry where families choose their own groceries. The abundance of produce and perishables from Lovin' Spoonfuls has given them the flexibility to make this switch. They've also set up a "Farmer's Market" on Wednesday with Lovin' Spoonfuls product. This market has allowed them to extend their services to 12-15 more families." - Natick Service Council

SFB: How would you like to see the Boston community more engaged in the food waste fight?
Lauren: We’d like to continue the consumer education piece.  While it’s not the main focus of our work, we recognize that 40% of food is wasted in the country.  Nearly half of that waste is happening in home kitchens and it’s completely preventable.  We’d like to work on educating consumers on better shopping habits and better ways to use stems or leafy greens - items that folks are constantly tossing at home.  We'd also like to make people aware of how much money the average family wastes.  It’s something that people are always shocked to hear, especially when we’re constantly trying to find ways to budget and stretch our dollars.  So we have our main focus on food recovery and redistribution, but we also do have workshops and educational materials that we try to share with the general public to further that message of consumer education.  
​
SFB: What is the most interesting creation you've seen (or made yourself!) from rescued food?
Lauren: I eat kale almost every day - I’m certainly the picture of “What is 2019 Eating.”  One of the things that drives me the most crazy is when people strip the leaves off the stem, when the stem is perfectly edible!  I feel like it’s my mission in life to make people realize that there are a whole bunch of things that you can do with kale stems, one being to just chop them smaller and cook them into whatever recipe you’re cooking.  I like to pickle them: I tend to save pickle brine in my fridge, and then I’ll just toss extra kale stems into the pickle brine.  Once they’re pickled, I just cut them up and toss them on salads, or really anything. This is probably a pretty weird one, but in our house leftover stems actually become dog treats!  

SFB: What are some upcoming plans for Lovin’ Spoonfuls in 2019 that you’re excited about?

Lauren: We just had our first Chef’s Table event, which is a new gala dinner fundraiser for us to raise funds for our operations.  We have 3 Season workshop series coming up later this year, and our signature Ultimate Tailgate happening in November.
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Photo courtesy of Lovin' Spoonfuls
Stay tuned this month for more exclusive interviews with key members of the food waste fight in Boston!  

Part Five Gardening with Chris:  It’s Good We Aren’t Subsistence Farmers …

8/15/2018

 
On the internet everything is great, fantastic and perfect.  Well, this blog is about to get real folks.

Not everything we try works out.  That’s one good reason to try a lot of different things in your experimental garden – variety for your meals … you may really like Kale, but how much can you eat in a week during peak season?  As well as variety in case a particular plant doesn’t really like your soil, sun exposure etc.
​

So, confession time … starting the herbs from seed didn’t work.  The vegetables seemed to work fine both last year and this year which is why I had so much confidence in starting the herbs from seed.  The herb seedlings stalled and pretty much stopped growing. Admittedly, they weren’t getting a ton of sun, but they were kept moist. Ms. A used a grow light above hers and seemed to get better results.
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My stalled herb seedings after probably close to 2 months
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Ms. A’s seedlings started under a grow light
The other thing I was disappointed by is the germination rate of the seeds from 7rowseeds.  I usually planted 2-4 seeds in most of the little seed starter cells because not every seed sprouts.  I had entire cells that sprouted nothing. This rarely happens with seeds you pick up on a seed rack from a “brand name” supplier.  Only about 2 of 4 cells planted with the Habanda peppers sprouted anything viable. Many of the Badger Flame beet cells barely sprouted when the Chiogga beets I started from seed last year took off no problem.  I’m not sure if its because they are hybrids or maybe they are just finicky. Maybe I haven’t mastered something yet to allow them to thrive. We sowed the RK squash directly into the ground and got some plants, but not as many as we should have for all the seeds used – so it was a trend for pretty much all the specialty seeds.

The carrots haven’t really taken off this year either.  I tried 2 varieties – half a row of orange Danvers carrots (because we are really close to Danvers, MA) from a seed bank, and half a row of carnival (multicolored) carrots from a rack in a store.  There are a few signs of life on one end of the row, but I’ve forgotten which is which at this point.

I happened to go to a wine and herb festival this spring where they paired a small food sample made with an “herb” with a wine at various wineries.  As you went on the tour from winery to winery (I was thankfully on a bus – it was a lot of wineries), you also got a small potted herb that was used in the food pairing to take home.  We ended up with some single plants that we probably wouldn’t otherwise have in the garden that add some biodiversity. It will be interesting to see how they fare.
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Celery
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Fennel
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Some other pepper varieties (egg shells in background)
By this time the potted herbs were showing up at the home supply stores, so I just spent the $30 and got healthy plants so I could have herbs all summer.
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Basil
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Habanada Pepper
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Herbs
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The collection (Starting top left and proceeding down … Habanada pepper, oregano, thyme, sage, chives, parsley, rosemary, Mexican oregano (I think), basil)
And, since this was getting to a proper garden with structures etc., and since great gardens had names, we decided we needed to name ours.  A name was selected, a sign was made, and future gardening appointments should up on our calendars with the locations designated as Cyrwood.
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One thing you can do with a diversity of vegetables when they all start coming in is make Minestrone.
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I find that the website thekitchn.com has some really good basics recipes.  See their recipe for Minestrone here. https://www.thekitchn.com/recipe-minestrone-224794

For a great table of how and when to add various vegetables from The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science, see this website … https://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2016/09/the-best-minestrone-soup-recipe.html

Gardening with Chris Part Four:  Finally getting to plant!

7/30/2018

 
Early in May, About 2 weeks after putting the hoop house / cold frame in place and putting
some tarps down to warm the ground, we had a few days of really warm weather. We checked
the soil temp and it was 10 or more degrees warmer than the exposed ground under both the
hoop house and the tarps. The theory had worked! The soil temp was around 70F, so we
decided to go ahead with planting some of the more cold-tolerant things as well as the greens
we wanted to shelter under the hoop house.
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A layer of fresh compost over one of the planting beds
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Peas planted by the Trellis
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Young Peas
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Strawberry Blossoms
The vegetable seedlings did quite well, they seemed to spring up no problem.
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Vegetable seedlings
We had a detailed 1’ x 1’ grid laid out with where everything was planned to be located.
Someone actually had the foresight to bring that along when we planted and even handily
enclosed it in a large ziplock bag to keep it clean and legible. Even more remarkable – we
basically followed it! One of the motivations was the hoop house, it is only so big so if we
wanted to fit everything under it that we intended for an early start, we pretty much had to
stick to plan (even using a tape measure rather than eyeballing row widths).
Within just a couple of weeks, with most of the greens under the hoop house, the plants had
established themselves and started to take off.
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Collards
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Ruby Chard
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Purple Kale
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Spinach
During year 1, we had a lot of slugs in the garden. No idea where they came from, but they
were everywhere and munching on leaves we were growing to eat ourselves. We tried the
beer method. You bury half a can or the bottom of a cup even with the soil surface and pour
beer into it. Apparently, slugs are attracted by the smell of beer, but are terrible swimmers (the
lack of arms and legs do make it rather challenging). They will crawl over, fall into the beer, be
unable to escape, and drown. Drowning in beer is not the worst way to go. The only problem
was we didn’t really find any slugs in our beer traps. Maybe the beer got too diluted with
water, maybe the leaves were just more attractive, but it didn’t work for us. This year, we got
tougher on them. Apparently, the underside of slugs are very tender and sharp things are very
dangerous for them to crawl over. Sharp things like coffee grounds and egg shells – both of
which have some beneficial properties for the soil as well. So we collected coffee grounds by
the bucket full at work and I collected my egg shells. You might think the remaining egg in the
shells would spoil and smell, but it didn’t. I just tossed the shells in a bag and they dried out.
Then I just crushed them up before applying to the garden around leafy things. We’ll see how
this year’s experiment works.
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Egg Shells around plants
Based on all the various things we have going, we certainly have a lot of biodiversity in the
garden. Some of it is driven by what people wanted to grow, some was driven by seeds or
plants that we had available to us. There’s a little something for everyone and it will be
interesting which things work out the best – I guess that’s one of the fun things about this kind or project/experiment.
​
One of the first signs of spring is the blooming of the waffles. I spotted this one in my
neighborhood. If anyone knows where I can buy waffle seeds, please let me know.
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Wild Waffle blooming
In blog 2 I shared my Southern Style Greens recipe.  In that picture was also a pork loin roast
which pairs well with those greens and is a simple, tasty and healthy protein that can feed a
family or provide leftovers. Once I had fresh herbs around again, I was inspired to make this
Herb Crusted Pork Loin Roast again. This one is stolen pretty directly from Genius Kitchen with only a few minor twists of my own.
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Ingredients:

3-4 garlic cloves
1 shallot (optional)
1c fresh herbs
2 spoonfuls of Dijon or mustard of your choice
olive oil
fresh coarse ground black pepper
~ 1 teaspoon salt
3 -4 lb boneless pork loin

Instructions:
Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.
You are making a paste to crust the meat. There are all kinds of options, I’m
just making some suggestions based on what I had handy, but use what you have
and dried herbs are an option too. In a small bowl food processor or with a knife
make a paste out of garlic, shallot if you have one – I had an extra last time I made
this so I threw it in and it worked, herbs – rosemary is great for this, I added
oregano and thyme as well, a couple spoons of mustard (pairs well with pork and
adds a little “bite”) and enough olive oil to loosen it up a little.
Score top of loin in diamond pattern, about 1/4" deep.
Salt and pepper outside of pork loin

Line a shallow roasting pan with foil. You can put the roast on a rack if you
have one to allow even heat all around.
Rub mustard herb mixture on sides and top of the pork roast.
Roast at 400 degrees F; first 10 minutes.

Reduce oven temp to 325 degrees F; continue roasting for 1-1/4 to 1-3/4 hours.
I really dislike dry pork – this is a lean cut which makes it more likely to be dry. I
differ a bit from the standard recipe here and recommend a target temp of about
145 F. Carry-over cooking is about 5-10 degrees, So I would remove from the
oven at an internal temp of 135-140F.  Remove roast to a platter, and let rest for 15 minutes.

Gardening with Chris Part Three:  Preparing for Sunnier Days …

7/9/2018

 
Early in April things were still pretty cold. That didn’t hinder our enthusiasm to get started with the garden, so we focused our efforts on planning and projects that we could do indoors.
Our little garden group had a list of things we wanted to grow from our prior meetings and it
seemed pretty ambitious. In order to figure out how to make everything fit, we decided to
make a plan (we did not do this in year 1). Ms. K has had experience with planning gardens and
pulled together information like spacing and companion plantings (or neighboring plants that
weren’t good pairings) on the things we wanted to grow. She also recommended a 1 foot grid
planning structure. We used this grid method to basically make a map of the garden in 1 foot
by 1 foot squares with where the plants would go and how many could comfortably be planted
in each square. Because we are crazy planning engineering types, we also took the path of the
sun across the garden in relation to the surrounding trees into account. We considered this
along with which plants preferred direct sun or were OK with shade. It was all very thought
out, but we’ll see what mother nature thinks of all our detailed plans.
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The Grand Plan
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Plants for Under the Coldframe
After a couple of weeks, the herb seeds had started to sprout. My cat’s name is Pfeiffer, she
keeps a close eye of all goings-on in the household (and will probably photo-bomb other
pictures – see her photobomb of last year’s harvest). Apparently, farmer Pfeiff also has a taste
for micro-herbs, so the seedlings didn’t get very far before facing their first threat from a
predator. I had to re-arrange the placement to keep Pfeiffer from enjoying the herbs
prematurely.
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Farmer Pfeiffer inspecting the crops
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Harvest Photo-bomb
As I mentioned in the first blog, we were also interested in building a few things to help us
extend the harvest a bit. Since Ms. A had a garage, we were able to make progress on this
regardless of the weather outside. I had found some information on a portable hoop house or
cold frame that I was very interested in for extending our growing season. Not only does it help during the growing season, but insulating the ground with a cold frame or even a plastic tarp will make the ground temperature warm up faster in the spring. A light-proof plastic covering will also help keep down weeds (both preventing light, and if they are started, it can get hot enough underneath the tarp to kill weedlings (is that a word?). I saw the original idea for a hoop house in a gardening book, and then used Google and Youtube to find something that looked simple enough for us tackle. https://youtu.be/AdE2L85l3f4 (PS - The math in this video is really bad … recommend figuring it out yourself and remembering that as long as the tubes are all the same length, it will work out OK).

​The engineers got to work calculating materials required and making a shopping list for the trip to the home supply store. The most high-tech thing involved is an automatic vent to keep the hoop house from overheating. It is not powered by electricity, the louvers open and close by temperature thanks to a temperature-sensitive spring. It closes when it is cold to protect from frost and opens again around 50F (it can get pretty warm inside the plastic). Thinking back to blog post 2 on ways that gardening is beneficial, we really enjoyed building these things. If you have office jobs where it’s sometimes hard to get immediate feedback or see progress, building something with your hands can be very rewarding. What was once a pile of supplies, in the span of one afternoon or evening can become a structure that you can get use out of for months and hopefully multiple seasons. It was amazing how much it raised our moods in the dark cold early spring to start making tangible progress on the future garden.
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Hoop house construction
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Raising the hoop house
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Trellis construction
We also wanted to grow upward this year, so we needed a trellis for things like peas and beans.
The beans also allow us to extend the harvest by allowing us to dry them for use later when
there isn’t as much fresh produce around. We looked at several concepts we found online and
again went with something we thought we could build and disassemble and/or store relatively
easily – a folding A-frame concept.
Since we now had a house to keep the early veggies warm, I decided to start a number of
veggies that are OK with cooler temps from seed. I started kale, collards, chard, spinach, and
the Badger Flame beets from row7seeds.com. The Habanada peppers had been started along
with the herbs in the 1 st seed starter kit.
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Some of the first things available in spring are spinach and asparagus. I made a few
modifications to Sondi Bruner’s recipe for a buckwheat risotto and it’s become a staple recipe for me as I’ve tried to adapt to healthier eating. If you joined us for our Eataly event and got excited about whole grains by one of our wonderful guest speakers, Maria Speck, this is another whole grain option to try. Buckwheat is actually not a wheat, but a seed, related to rhubarb and is gluten free and higher in protein than most grains. I first started eating it when I switched to soba noodles as an alternative to traditional pasta with a better macronutrient profile, it has a better consistency than some other “healthier noodles”. I started looking for other ways to consume this whole grain and came across buckwheat groats which are the whole seed (a tetrahedron shape – 4 triangular sides). Here it is used as a substitute for rice in a risotto recipe to develop a creamy consistency. I get mine in the bulk foods section of Whole Foods with the whole grains, beans and other things. I usually double the recipe so I can reheat for leftovers – it can also be reheated from frozen (and its better for you than most fast weeknight frozen options).
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​Buckwheat Risotto with Spinach, asparagus and Mushrooms

Ingredients
Olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup buckwheat groats
A little white wine (optional – traditional to risotto process, but not necessary
1 cup mushrooms, sliced – I usually use button mushrooms, but have used shitake and others as well
2 cups spinach, shredded – I usually just use a bag of baby spinach – wilts down nicely
1 green onion, chopped – can be omitted
½ tsp salt, or more to taste
2 cups vegetable stock – You can use all vegetable stock to keep it vegetarian, but I usually use a combination of chicken stock and mushroom stock for a deeper mushroom flavor (learned this from making traditional risotto). To make mushroom stock: Chop ~ ½ oz dried mushrooms (porcini and Portobello are common), add to ~ 2c hot water or stock in a measuring cup or small bowl and let sit while you proceed with other steps until the mushrooms are rehydrated and have flavored the stock – use the stock per the recipe
1 bunch of asparagus – tender parts only
Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese for garnish (optional)


Instructions
1. Make the mushroom stock if you are choosing to do so and let sit while you perform the rest of the steps
2. In a medium-sized pot, sauté the onions and garlic in a bit of Olive oil until soft. Add the
buckwheat and stir it around until it gets coated by the onions and garlic.
3. Add the wine and stir until mostly absorbed by the grain
4. Add the mushrooms and ½ cup of stock (dried mushrooms and all if you are using mushroom stock) and stir. When all the liquid is absorbed, add another ½ cup of stock. Repeat until the buckwheat is tender, or until the stock has been used (you may not need to use all of it, though).  If you do run out of stock getting the grain tender, water works.
5. Mix in the asparagus, spinach, and salt and stir. Cover and cook until the aspargas is tender
(probably only 5-10 minutes – save this until you are getting close to being ready with the rest
meal if you are trying to time it). Taste and adjust seasonings if necessary. Serve and garnish
with green onion and cheese if you choose to use them.

Gardening with Chris Part Two:  Why Garden?

6/18/2018

 
So, how did the garden project originate, and why might you want to start a garden?  My work work-out buddy (we’ll call her Ms. A going forward) was concerned about her sons’ eating habits.  Her family didn’t have a lot of healthy food traditions and has a history of obesity and health issues and she was worried about passing that legacy to her teenage sons.  The boys weren’t interested in anything from the fruit and vegetable groups and their diets were primarily made up of processed foods and value-sized boxes of cheez its. Having had some success introducing apples after taking one of the boys apple-picking, Ms. A thought that maybe being involved in growing and harvesting some vegetables, would help them be more adventurous and interested in trying things.  Spoiler alert: it hasn’t been a rousing success yet, but the guinea pigs have been VERY happy. 

Since Ms. A didn’t have much gardening experience herself, she asked another co-worker (we’ll call her Ms. K going forward) who has had gardens in the past and is interested in organic produce and gardening and myself if we would be interested in helping.  Having grown things in containers most years, and worked as a winemaker and vineyard manager at a microwinery, I thought “I know how to grow stuff, how different could a vegetable garden be?” Let’s just say I learned a few things. I had also made some lifestyle changes in the prior 18 months or so and am eating more whole foods (including a lot of leafy greens – Kale, Chard, Collards) and feeling a lot better.  I was interested in taking my whole foods eating to the next level by growing my own organic produce.

Ms. K has had some experience in designing gardens, so she and Ms. A put together a plan – I thought it was pretty ambitious for a first garden; 2 planting rows that were 4’ wide by 16’ long with bark mulched paths all around.  The boys liked working with power tools so they helped rototill the ground. There were a lot of rocks in the plot – some were fairly large which I helped remove and carry to the borders or into the woods. Then, there was the compost.  Ms. A was fortunate in that her town offers free compost at the town recycling center. I helped lug compost in large storage tubs from the compost pile into her backyard (note: compost is damp and very heavy – no extra points for filling the container to the top if you can’t lift it afterward).  Ms. A worked in a lot of compost and, based on Ms. K’s soil testing and recommendations, some soil amendments like lime and blood meal. 

Based on the local rabbit population, we decided we needed a fence.  Ms. A asked if I knew how to build a fence. Actually, every time I’ve needed a fence, one was conveniently already there.  I never had to build one myself. Thankfully, we aren’t homesteads who have to learn the hard way over several years. We have the internet and many people have generously posted instructions and videos on how do just about anything you might need to know.  We built a fence that proved to be very effective year 1 … fur-bearing pests were not an issue. Because it was a group of engineers involved, the fence includes a hinged and latched gate (I’ve seen commercial wineries with less elaborate set-ups around their vineyards). 

As a result of all the groundwork in establishing the garden, it was a bit later until we actually got around to planting – early June.  I had started a number of seeds probably 4-6 weeks earlier and had them hardening off on my deck to get acclimated to the sun and wind. Ms. A had also started some things from seed.  After all the physical labor in building the garden, I thought the planting would be the easy part. I think I planted at least 72 individual plants, plus seeded some things. It turns out that spending an entire day bent over and stretching to avoid stepping in the planting beds will make you pretty sore the next day.  We decided to try and stage our planting a bit this year so as not to try and plant the entire garden in one day.
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I thought once things got planted in the good fresh compost of their forever home that they would take off like gangbusters, but 2 weeks passed and I didn’t see much progress.  We decided to add some Neptunes Harvest Fish fertilizer. Its organic, local to the North Shore fishing industry, and the Native Americans used to plant a fish at the bottom of the hole when they planted the 3 sisters (corn, beans, squash).  I figured if it worked in Plymouth a few hundred years ago, it was probably solid advice. After fertilizing, things really started to take off – the squash in particular loved it. I learned in an organic gardening symposium this year put on by Slow Food Seacoast that compost takes a year or so before its nutrients become available to the plants.  So, when you are using compost, you are making a future investment in your soil structure, but it isn’t an immediate benefit (which is probably why things didn’t really start growing until we added more a readily available fertilizer).
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For a first year garden, we really got a lot of production.  The kids got a few pumpkins from their own backyard for Halloween.  I was able to harvest my own Kale, Chard, and Collards and avoid paying Whole Foods or the local farmers market for a few months.  We grew beets (you get beet greens as a bonus), tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, carrots (not having kids of my own, I learned that with kids, its better to demonstrate rather than give abstract instructions if you don’t want a “carrot mound”, butternut squash, some potatoes.  The broccoli and brussel sprouts had tiny production. Another thing we learned was that because we planted everything at the same time, it all seemed to ripen at the same time. This year we want to stagger things a bit so we can have early beets and late beets, for example, instead of a bunch of beets all at once that we don’t really know how to deal with.  I’m also interested in leaving some root veg in the ground as a means of storage since inside things tended to dry out after a couple of weeks. If this hasn’t been inspiring enough, I’ve been watching a Netflix series called “Big Dreams, Small Spaces” which can provide more inspiring stories of backyard transformations (although not all episodes involve edibles).
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OK, so the next bit is a little philosophical.  Why is something as basic as gardening so rewarding?  We seem to live in a time where people are often talking about purpose and seem less contented.  One theory about this discomfort or uncertainty is that we have more choice now than ever before – we aren’t as limited by geography or social constructs as we were previously.  All these choices leave us confused and uncertain about what we should be doing.  One framework that has resonated with me is Robert Lustig’s 4 C’s of happiness: Connect, Contribute, Cope (sleep, exercise, mindfulness), and Cook.  Gardening offers the opportunity to satisfy all 4, leading to stress reduction, and greater happiness and contentment. 
To connect, you can have face-to-face real-life interactions with others if you have a small garden group like I’m doing, join a garden club, or just get together with other like-minded people to see how their tomatoes are doing this year or how they deal with slugs during an exceptionally wet spring.  I didn’t have much common ground with my nonagenarian grandmother, but we would usually talk about how her small garden was doing and how my herbs were growing when I would see her. It’s a great normalizer, regardless of age, background, education, socioeconomic or other differences, we all get the same weather and pests and it gives you a friendly conversation starter. 

Contributing to something outside yourself for no monetary gain through volunteering and philanthropy can be accomplished a few ways.  In my little garden project, we’re trying to get the kids interested and teach them a little about gardening, vegetables, and building things around the yard.  Maybe you can share some of your produce with family and friends or better yet, show them how to make a recipe using fresh produce (Connecting, contributing and cooking all-in-one!).
Coping helps you deal with your own stress.  Instead of multi-tasking (which contrary to popular belief is actually significantly less efficient than working a single task and is more stressful), focusing on a simple task like planting, weeding, or looking for ripe vegetables can help settle the mind.  And you will definitely get some exercise via stretching and bending that you wouldn’t get sitting at a desk. The sunlight helps with melatonin (sleep hormone) regulation and in combination with the fresh air and exercise, you will sleep better and feel better the next day.  Ms. A enjoyed just sitting by the garden and looking at its progress as a way to forget the stress of the day.

And of course, one of the prime reasons to garden is to have plenty of fresh produce to cook with.  And fresh, whole foods will make you feel better than processed foods due to their nutritional value and the impact of that nutrition on your hormones and genetic expression.
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That’s how my garden project came to be and some of the reasons I do it.  If you’d like to share your story or other great benefits with the Slow Food community, please feel free to do so.

Saying the following recipe will change your life might be a bit of an overstatement, but if you struggle to get those dark leafy greens (like in the prior picture of home-grown produce) that are so beneficial to good health into your diet, this is one to try.  I make the bacon ahead in the oven (400 F for about 15-20 minutes or your preferred level of crispiness) on a half sheet pan covered with wide aluminum foil to catch the bacon fat (yum!) and make clean-up simple. I keep the bacon in a ziplock bag in the fridge for use in this recipe or to just pop in the microwave for breakfast or sandwiches etc.  The bacon fat, poured from the lined sheet pan after it cools a little, I keep in a mason jar in the fridge – better than margarine for sure. Go with a good smoked bacon – it makes a difference.

INGREDIENTS
  • 2 Tbsp bacon fat,
  • 1 medium onion, diced
  • 2 slices of bacon – coarsely chopped
  • 2-3 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 tsp -1 T Old Bay seasoning
  • 2c - 1 quart chicken broth or water (depending how many greens you have)
  • 8-10 cups chopped greens, (collard, kale, chard, mustard or any combination – I usually do a combination for the variation in texture) about 2 bunches if purchased, you can do 3 if you a want a BIG batch

IINSTRUCTIONS
  1. Heat the bacon fat in a dutch oven or large pot set over medium heat.
  2. Sauté the onion in the bacon fat, stirring often, until softened.
  3. Add the bacon, garlic, and mix the Old Bay Seasoning into the fat until well incorporated.  
  4. Add the chicken stock or water and bring to a simmer.  This is the flavor base for what southern folks call pot liquor – you could cook grass clippings in this and they would taste good!
  5. Add the greens to the pot, cover and cook until tender, stirring occasionally.  The original recipe called for 45 minutes to an hour of cooking time, but I find a half hour usually does it.  You really can’t overcook this
  6. I find the leftovers reheat well in the microwave and the Old Bay adds just the right amount of spice so you don’t really need vinegar and hot sauce.

Gardening with Chris Part One:  Plotting & Seeding

5/13/2018

 
I am a VERY amateur gardener.  I haven’t done any vegetable gardening since I was in grade school.  However, last year, I started a small community garden of sorts in a friend’s back yard – more background on how that came to be in a future post.  It went pretty well, so I decided to chronicle our adventures in year two to hopefully inform, inspire, and start some dialog among the Slow Food Boston community.  As a relative newbie, I’d love to hear about other people’s helpful tips and experiences on their “Boston Grown” gardening adventures. 

While it was still a little early to start working outside, it wasn't too early to start planning and prepping for 2018’s garden.  To begin planning, our little garden group has had a few lunchtime meetings to decide what we want to grow this year and in what part of the garden might work best.  We had some ideas to improve on what we grew last year – we want to add some trellising for those plants that like to climb (we are going to try more beans this year). Now that we know how the squash plants like to run around the garden, we’re thinking of using the fence to give them some direction and make better use of space.  Our big idea was to do a little succession planting and build a small, portable hoop house to let us get started earlier before the threat of frost to extend the warm season past the first frost in the fall. Stay tuned to see how those go.
In the early (still freezing) months leading up to Spring, the other thing you can do while holding a hot beverage in your hand when the wind is blowing is seed shopping.  There are several great sources of seed you can find online, like ​Burpee and ​High Mowing Organic Seeds.  There's also Johnny's Seeds, which I learned at a Slow Food Seacoast gardening seminar and seed swap a few weeks ago located in Portsmouth, NH (that chapter is a reasonable trip from Boston if they have a meeting you’d like to attend).  Johnny’s Seeds is located in Maine and their website has some great resources including planning tools and calculators to help with planting times and succession planting (we’re going to need that!).  Baker Creak Heirloom Seeds even has a special section for Slow Food Ark of Taste vegetables.  Along with those selections, a new venture this year is a collaboration between chef Dan Barber (of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in NY) and Cornell University with  Row 7 Seeds that breed vegetables specifically for taste instead of shelf-life or transportability.  One thing I really enjoy is growing things you can’t find as easily as you would in a regular grocery store. Last year, we grew rainbow carrots and Chiogga beets, which have candy cane stripes of alternating colors. This year, we’re trying some interesting varieties from Row 7 Seeds:  A beet with less of the earthy flavor I’m not fond of, a squash that changes color when its ripe (vine-ripened squash!), and a spicy pepper without the heat yet still retains its floral characteristics … stay tuned to see how they work out.  ​​​
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After picking out my seeds for this year, a few weeks ago amidst a few warm days I caught garden fever and stopped by my local hardware store and picked up some additional seeds and a seed-starter “system.”  You can make your own “system,” but I’m lazy and this was pretty neat and tidy for an apartment situation so I went for it. It’s probably still a bit early to start growing veggies, so I’ll grow herbs in containers this year on my small deck.  I’ve started those along with my Row 7 Seeds peppers since that will likely be a container-dweller too, while I start the bigger vegetables in my friend’s backyard garden nearby. While Boston residents can find a community garden in most parts of the city to start growing vegetables, that might seem too daunting for those just getting started.  I live in an apartment with a little outdoor space in the form a small deck. Herbs can grow pretty much anywhere there's access to sunlight like near windows – perfect for urban spaces.  You can even grow herbs hydroponically without soil in mason jars. I’ve grown salad greens in a flat planter that sort of looked like a deep frying pan.  Alice, a new friend I was speaking with at a recent Slow Food social, mentioned that Mother Earth Gardens sells trays that let you garden on rooftops in urban spaces.  Based on what I've learned from Alice, I'd welcome any other thoughts on creative ways to make things “Boston Grown” in non-traditional gardens!
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Why grow herbs, you ask?  They are pretty easy to grow and are a great way to add flavor and freshness to dishes without adding extra calories.  Maybe you don't think you can do a lot of elaborate cooking with herbs, but they can also be used in beverages; use fresh mint in mojito’s or mint juleps (derby day is coming up), use them fresh or muddled to infuse them in various drinks to create craft cocktails or herbal teas.  Herbs are also of course a great way to add flavor and freshness to dishes without adding extra calories. Herbs can also be added to eggs or omelets, as well as simple soups  and sauces to add an extra complexity of flavor, or even tossed with some oven roasted vegetables.  Since we generally still eat roasted root vegetables  when eating seasonally during the colder months, I like to make a tasty garlic oil infused with rosemary (homegrown or store-bought) to flavor roasted vegetables like squash, broccoli, cauliflower, brussel sprouts, and other hearty mixed vegetables.  I generally combine a few recipes that work for me to make what I consider my own version of Bertucci’s bread dipping oil reverse-engineered (with help from Martha Stewart on creating garlic oil). I have read about some risk of botulism with garlic-infused olive oil, but from what I’ve read, cooking the infused oil in a jar with a tightened lid in boiling water for 10 minutes seems to be the consensus to mitigate any risk; when you notice steam bubbles developing from the water escaping the jar after almost 10 minutes, this indicates that the water is cooked out and the jar is vacuum-sealed to prevent harmful cultures from contaminating your preserves.  When ready to eat, it’s fantastic sprinkled with a little parmesan & romano to dip bread into, but I’m trying to reduce my simple carb intake, so I’ve re-purposed it for roasted veggies instead.  Below, you'll find a delicious garlic rosemary infused olive oil you and loved ones can enjoy anytime of the year.
​Garlic Oil Recipe
6 cloves garlic – minced
1 cup olive oil
Red pepper flakes (I use a small pinch – just ~ 2 dozen flakes, but you may like it hotter)
Fresh Rosemary (maybe 1-2 tsp – I eyeball what “looks” right)
Smash, peel, and mince garlic (I use a microplane)
Add olive oil and garlic to a medium pot and heat over medium-low heat until bubbles form around garlic (about 3 minutes)
Let cook for 10 minutes, reducing heat to low if garlic starts to brown
Remove from heat
Immediately add red pepper flakes and finely minced rosemary to hot oil to steep
Cool to room temperature
Store leftover in jar until ready to use, shake to redistribute herbs that sink to the bottom

SUMMER FOOD BLOG SERIES: Homesick for Homegrown

9/1/2016

 
            My passion for food and travel has taken me down a path that takes me out of the country for many months at a time:  I teach cooking classes and give culinary tours around the globe.  I try my best to “be here now” and fully appreciate where I am and what the season is. The Europeans do it so well.  Be it tradition, patriotism, or simply the knowledge that local/seasonal/regional just tastes better, the markets I have visited from Copenhagen to Casablanca are always about what was recently pulled from the ground, trees, ocean, or handmade in small batches. They celebrate the arrival of ingredients with festivals and the many local city and town open-air markets are teeming with that which is freshest.
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A glimpse into what Annie samples and prepares on her travels when teaching cooking classes and leading culinary tours abroad.
   In Riga, Latvia (talk about a short growing season) the Central Market (opened in 1930 to be the best market in Europe) is a marvel—four former German zeppelin hangars are filled stem to stern with fish, meat, produce, and dairy respectively. Outside the market, local farmers simply set up stands under awnings. May to August (with an intense summer solstice) and it’s done, then there’s a long, cold winter. What they grow, grows fast and in big numbers, but then that’s it. The chanterelle mushrooms, herbs, cucumbers, berries, melons, and all manner of produce from the soil pile up in heaps and the Latvians eat as much as they can, then they dry, pickle, or preserve what they can’t. 

Rīgas Centrāltirgus aero 2016 from Rīgas Centrāltirgus on Vimeo.

​At the markets in Nice, they have coeur de boeuf  ̶  beef “heart” not beef “steak”  ̶  tomatoes and I buy as many as would make sense (plus some more) and they are delicious, just sliced with some verdant Provençal olive oil, sea salt, and thyme. In Oslo and Helsinki, it’s cloudberries   ̶  egg-yolk-yellow cousins of raspberries, which seem to glow in the bright Nordic sun. I eat them by the handful and feel sorry for myself that I can’t make jars and jars of jam.
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Coeur de boeuf "beef heart" tomatoes at a local market in Nice, France.
In late winter, it's sea urchin or ricci season in Sardinia, a perfectly al dente bowl of spaghetti with a bit of dried chile flakes, a hint of garlic, extra virgin olive oil, and those briny, oceany gifts from Neptune are an ethereal experience.
 
            But for all the traveling I get to do, I often miss getting my hands in the dirt of my tiny backyard garden in Somerville.  The squirrels and rabbits get most of the bounty (one nasty guy takes just one bite out of each eggplant), so I feel pretty psyched when I get a few dozen  tomatoes from the four or five vines we have.  I relish those tomatoes and I can be pretty insufferable about insisting on eating them for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  If I’m away and I can’t get plants in the ground in time, or if I’m not home when they ripen, I get legitimately homesick and will talk to anyone who will listen to me about why New England tomatoes are so important and so good.  I’m here this year and if this one mean squirrel doesn’t get them before I do, I’m already thinking about that first BLT on toasted wheat bread with Duke’s mayonnaise.


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Annie Copps is the former senior food ​editor of Yankee Magazine, overseeing the magazine's food coverage both as an editor and as a contributor of feature stories and columns. Prior to joining Yankee, she served as Food Editor of Boston Magazine and Feature Editor of Concierge, and was also widely known for her work as the host of WBZ radio's Connoisseurs' Corner and WTKK's Table Talk with Annie Copps. Annie also contributed to WGBH's food blog, The Daily Dish.

As a television producer, she made her mark with two popular public broadcasting series,
Cooking with Todd English and Julia Child's Kitchen, where she was an assistant to the legendary grande dame of French cuisine. She has appeared frequently as a guest on NBC's Today Show and other TV and radio shows. She is a veteran of some of the area's most prestigious kitchens, including Olive's and Jasper's.
​
Most recently, she has been sailing around the world creating and leading interactive cooking classes and culinary discovery tours at a number of international food venues in addition to managing the Culinary Center aboard luxury cruise ships for
Bon Appétit.

SUMMER FOOD BLOG SERIES: Le Dîner en Blanc Boston

8/24/2016

 
In 1988, after spending a few years abroad, François Pasquier organized a picnic to reconnect with old friends. The concept was simple: "Bring a meal, and bring a new friend." Since his garden was too small to host all the guests, he told them to convene at the Parc de Bagatelle in the Bois de Boulogne and to dress in white, so they could easily find each other. The dinner was such a success that the friends decided the next year, each person would invite some other friends, and the event grew organically over the years into a spectacular pop-up gathering.

The first editions in Paris were not easy to pull off. Though the venue remained the same until 1991, the numbers quickly escalated from an initial 200 to 1,200, making it necessary to conceal the location of the dinner and the current process of using point-people to coordinate a batch of tables and provide transportation before the event began.

Nearly 30 years later, François Pasquier still organizes the Parisian Dîner en Blanc with those same friends which now assembles over 10,000 guests every year- a record of 15,000 people attended the 25th anniversary in 2013. The police no longer try to break up the Dîner en Blanc in Paris—authorities know that the event is well-organized and that guests are always respectful of public property. But it’s also reflective of the progressive view the Parisian government has on the use of venerated architecture, continuing to allow this large, unauthorized party to happen in prestigious locations around the city.   
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On a beautiful warm summer night in late July, 2,000 guests donned head-to- toe in white arrived at the recently unveiled Dîner en Blanc secret location, Boston Children’s Museum’s Waterfront Terrace, and took in the spectacular views of Boston’s picturesque skyline.
Interest exploded after New York hosted its first event in 2009. Since then, some 400 cities have requested Dîner en Blanc to come to them. Today, Le Dîner en Blanc takes place in over 70 cities in more than 25 countries spanning 5 continents.

In an effort to create a magical evening where guests are in good company in an environment that's both unusual and extraordinary, there is no political or ideological agenda and minimal branding are part of the event in order t
o uphold Le Dîner en Blanc's high standards of elegance, a night of haute cuisine, and utter refinement (rules prohibit organizers from using the event to raise funds for any organization and sponsorship opportunities are limited).  Brought together from diverse backgrounds by good taste and a love of beauty, Le Dîner en Blanc recalls the sophistication and glamor of high French society. Guests engage one another, knowing that they are taking part in a truly phenomenal event.  
 At this year's Le Diner en Blanc - Boston, I spoke to a few attendees to find out why they come, what makes it truly memorable for them, and of course, what they brought for dinner.
Meet a few of Le Dîner en Blanc Boston’s 2016 revelers.
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Hyacinth, Aisha, and Fijoy are architects. Jennifer is a professional dancer. Hyacinth attended in 2015 and invited Jennifer and Fijoy to join them this year.
How did you hear about the event?
Aisha: I saw it a few years ago, and thought, “This is fantastic! I’m always about things that are fantastic.”  I got on the waiting list, it took a few years, and then I was finally able to go in 2015. We went last year with two other friends.

Hyacinth: I’m always willing to try new things with new people.

What attracts you most to Le Dîner en Blanc?
Aisha: Everyone being beautiful, you can feel the love and happiness. I appreciate the effort everyone puts into it. There’s so much drama and negativity in the world lately, it’s just so nice to see something so positive.

Hyacinth: There’s a sense of unity. The creativity of participants is amazing.

What is the inspiration for your tablescape?
Aisha: Architecture, modernism, simplicity and minimalism. I made this! (Photo of origami centerpiece)

What’s for dinner?
​Hyacinth: We divvied up the responsibility. We have a little bit of everything; roast chicken, ribs, salad, mac and cheese.

Aisha: Italian sodas and of course pastries for dessert.
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PictureNatasha is an accountant and Michael is a retail manager. This is the second time the couple has attended Dîner en Blanc.
How did you hear about the event?
Natasha: We lived in NYC for a couple of years. There you need to know someone who goes to get invited. Then we moved to Boston. We got on the waiting list last year, and the rest is history!

What do you enjoy most about Le Dîner en Blanc?
Natasha: It’s exciting getting ready for the event, especially planning the menu. The preparation is the fun part, but getting here on time is stressful.
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Michael: I think that the pressure of getting there on time and the element of surprise are really fun.

What is the inspiration for your tablescape?
​Natasha: We try to keep it simple. As long as there is good food, we’re good.

What’s for dinner?
Michael: Tonight we’re eating grilled salmon with asparagus and a fruit tart for dessert.

Natasha: We look for things that don’t have to be served heated.

PictureAngel is a medical procedure coordinator and Steve is a VP of marketing. This is their third time attending Le Dîner en Blanc Boston.
How did you hear about the event?
Angel: We found out about it first from dining in the dark. They posted about it. We invited our friends!

​What do you enjoy most about Le Dîner en Blanc?
Steve: It’s about dressing up and having a special night. As an adult those times come so few and far between. We like to break up our routine.

Angel: Meeting everybody and seeing people from all colors and races and groups, from old to young. It’s really awesome.

What is the inspiration for your tablescape?
Angel: I was behind it. We built it together but I designed it. It’s an ode to the original dinner.

Steve: We didn’t have it last year. We had arches last year. This year we thought, “What can we do to step it up?”

What’s for dinner?
Steve: We did not bring our own meals tonight. We had BBQ from one of the baskets offered for sale as part of the event. It’s very good.

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On a beautiful warm summer night in late July, 2,000 guests donned head-to- toe in white arrived at the recently unveiled Dîner en Blanc secret location, Boston Children’s Museum’s Waterfront Terrace, and took in the spectacular views of Boston’s picturesque skyline.

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Jennifer Garrett is a freelance project manager and event producer focused on partnership development in the local food space. She specializes in engaging audiences with unique and thoughtful food related programming and educational events. Jenifer's clients have included the Nantucket Wine Festival, Massachusetts Cheese Guild, and  Let’s Talk About Food among others. A former picky eater, her “deserted island foods” now include asparagus, Brussels sprouts, and any kind of red meat.  Her hobbies include traveling, visiting art museums, and eating charcuterie. 

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